Dev Bhoomi, as it is rightly called, this land of Gods is a terrain blessed with heavenly beauty covered with holy peaks, lakes, and rivers.
Through the twisting roads in the high-altitude Himalayas, numerous hiking trails lead to spectacular pilgrimage sites where tales of Hindu epics are set. Everywhere you go, you will feel the presence of Shiva and Parvati.
It has the second-highest tiger population after Karnataka and is a host to India’s second-highest peak- Nanda Devi.
When to Visit
April to mid-June:- the best season for summer treks. and tiger spotting at Corbett Tiger Reserve
July to mid-Sep: Monsoons are a difficult time in the Himalayas. The valley of flowers is in its peak bloom during July and August.
Mid-Sep to Nov:– is the perfect time to trek the Himalayas.
History
Various dynasties over time have dominated Uttarakhand, including the Guptas, Katyuri, and Chand rajas.
18th century UK saw the Nepalese Gurkhas attack the Kumaon kingdom, followed by Garhwal. This led to an intervention by the British. The treaty of Sugauli in 1816 conferred a more extensive region to the British. This region was merged with Uttar Pradesh. But post a separatist movement, the present-day state of Uttaranchal was formed in 2000. This state got renamed Uttarakhand in 2007, which literally means northern country.
Climate
Being a Himalayan state, the mountain range has the full reign in determining the weather extremes. Uttarakhand’s summers are a delight, opening the trekking season in full swing. Rishikesh offers good comfort from October to March due to its low altitude location. July to September is when it’s most dangerous for treks as the monsoon is at its peak. The winters are cold. Most parts of the state get snowfall, opening winter-specific trek points.
Roads snake through the Himalayan mountains for long hours. The journey can be stomach-churning, long, and unpredictable due to occasional landslides.
Places to Visit
Rishikesh
It is the yoga capital of the world. Rishikesh has been attracting spiritual seekers since the 60s after the Beatles visited. People worldwide come here to learn the spiritual practice of yoga and meditation, surrounded by heavily forested mountains and the Ganga river.
As the sadhus gear up for the Ganga aarti at 7 in the evening, a breeze of spirituality flows down this town.
Rishikesh is also the prime spot for white water rafting and a get-down point for backpackers and trekkers.
International yoga festival – In the first week of March, swamis and yoga masters worldwide flock to Rishikesh for lectures and training.
Lakshman Zhula
The hanging bridge to the 13 storey temple of swarg Niwas and Shri Trimbakeshwar is the defining image of Rishikesh. The temple resembles a fairyland castle and dozens of shrines to Hindu deities on each level.
Swarg Ashram – is a pleasant 2km walk south of Lakshman Zhula, along the path skirting the east bank of the Ganges, leading to the spiritual community of Swarg Ashram. The colourful Ganga aarti is held at the riverside temple of the parmarth Niketan ashram every evening around sunset.
Garhwal and Kumaon
Uttarakhand is divided into two administrative districts- Garhwal and Kumaon. The locals consider Garhwal to be the masculine half of the state due to its exceptionally burly topography. The landscape’s character is primarily defined by the four major rivers that flow from Himalayan glaciers and have carved the terrain into a rugged network of ridges and canyons.
Blessed by a gentle landscape as compared to Garhwal, Kumaun is said to be the feminine half of Uttarakhand. It has rolling, terraced hills and graceful Himalayan summits and the strength of its goddess worshipping culture.
Rafting, kayaking and trekking
An easy 15-minute walk to 2 small waterfalls starts 3km north of Lakshman jhula bridge on the south side of the river. Rishikesh is the hub of river rafting in this state.
Haridwar
It is located where the Ganga emerges from the Himalayas. It’s considered to be Uk’s holiest Hindu city. The river comes alive every evening with flickering flames as floating offerings are released to Ganga. It’s busy in the yatra season from May to October.
Har ki Pairi ghat is where Vishnu is said to have dropped some divine nectar and left behind a footprint. As the sun sets, bells ring out a rhythm, torches are lit, and leaf baskets with flower petals inside and candles are lit and placed on the river to drift away.
Mansa devi and Chandi devi temples are also a major attraction here.
Kumbh Mela
It’s the most significant religious gathering on earth. It’s an auspicious time to wash away the sins in a sacred river. It happens every 12 years in Haridwar. Ardh Kumbh Mela is also held here which too attracts large crowds.
Rajaji Tiger Reserve
It covers around 1000 sq. km in the forested foothills near Haridwar. It has almost 34 tigers, also known for wild elephants and leopards. The thick deciduous forests are also home to chitals, sambars, Himalayan black bean and sloth bears and 300 species of birds. The Chilla village near Haridwar is the base for visiting this park.
See also: Goa travel guide
Dehradun
It is the capital city of Uttarakhand. It’s known for the institutions that the British left behind- the forest research institute museum, Indian military academy, wildlife institute of India and survey of India. Its located between the Doon valley between Himalayan foothills and the Siwalik range.
Mindrolling Monastery
It’s a thriving Tibetan Buddhist community. The 60 m tall great stupa is believed to be the world’s tallest one. It contains a series of shrine rooms displaying relics, murals and Tibetan art. A 35m high gold Sakyamuni Buddha statue is dedicated to Dalai Lama.
Forest Research Institute Museum
The building is the prime attraction, the grand remnant of the Raj era. Most of India’s forest officers are trained here. It is more significant than Buckingham Palace. This red-brick colossus has Mughal towers, built-in 1929, arches, porticos, and roman columns in a series of quadrangles edged by elegant cloisters.
Mussoorie
Mussoorie is the queen of hill stations. The architecture of the churches, libraries, hotels and summer palaces is worth attraction. On clear days, the news of the green doon valley and the snow-capped Himalayan peaks are visible.
Mussoorie Heritage Centre
It’s an impressive heritage centre beneath Landour’s clock tower. It displays collectives and artefacts from Mussoorie, photography and prints for tourists.
Gun Hill
It’s a viewpoint from where you get the mesmerizing view of several prominent peaks. Head for it an hour before sunset.
Happy Valley
This is where the Dalai Lama and his fellow exiles arrived in 1959 after escaping from Tibet. Before relocating to Dharamshala, he lived here for a year. There’s a shedup choephelling temple where the local Tibetan community pray. There’s also a hilltop stupa at Dalai hills with a large buddha statue.
The Chardham Yatra
Some of the holiest sites in the Hindu culture are found in the high Garhwal Himalayas. – Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath, Badrinath. The sources of sacred rivers- Ganga, Yamuna, Mandakini, and Alaknanda, are all marked by spiritual temples. Together they constitute the Char Dham yatra. Every year between April and November, hundreds of thousands of worshippers take this path to the four abodes.
Yamunotri
The Yamunotri temple is tucked away deep, close to the source of the river Yamuna. It’s the second most sacred river for Hindus. It’s one of the Char Dham sites, where you have to start a 5km hike from a tiny village called Kharsali in Janki Chatti.
There are hot springs where you can take a dip. Pilgrims cook potatoes and rice as a prasad. One km beyond the temple, the Yamuna river spills from a frozen lake of ice and glaciers on the Kalinda parvat at an altitude of 4421m.
Uttarkashi
Set along the banks of holy Bhagirathi, Uttarkashi is the largest town in northern Garhwal. Its the capital of the entire district.
Gangotri & Gaumukh glacier
At an altitude of 3042m, Gangotri is one of the Chardham temples and the source of river Ganga. Besides its religious significance, it attracts trekkers too, for the trek from Gangotri to the actual source of the river, at Gaumukh.
Uttarakhand’s Top Treks
The most authentic way to explore the Himalayas and their sheer beauty is through trekking.
Gaumukh glacier– a rocky valley trail to the source of the Ganga.
Valley of flowers– the kaleidoscopic panoramas of hundreds of flowers at full bloom with snow-capped mountains in the background.
Nehru Institute for Mountaineering is located here.
Har ki Dun Valley Trek– A rocky start to the trek, this one ends into a beautiful valley- Shiva’s valley as it translates.
Kuari Pass trek– it gives you a close-up of Nanda Devi, which stands tall at 7816m.
Tungnath and Chadrashilla trek– it’s a short 4-hour trek to the highest Shiva temple in the world.
Roopkund treks a multiday trek through alpines and forests to a glacial high altitude lake. It’s famous for the mysterious scattering of 9th-century skeletons.
Milam Glacier trek is an eight-day expedition along an ancient remote Tibetan trade route leading to this glacier.
Kedarnath
It’s the most spectacular of the four char Dham temples. It is revered by Hindus all over India for the long trek up. You walk alongside the stone paved pathway etched into the steep slopes of the canyon cut by the Mandakini, following the upstream river.
It is believed that Shiva left a stone hump in the form of a bull when he dove into the ground.
Kedarnath was the epicenter of the devastating flood in 2013. The massive boulder behind the temple and the stone temple took the worst of the onslaught of floods. Thus saving it from a complete collapse.
Badrinath and Mana village
In the shadow of snow-topped Nilkantha, Badrinath temple is located. It’s one of the Char Dham temples and sacred to Lord Vishnu. Guru Shankara found this temple in the 8th century. However, since it’s a major tourist attraction due to Char Dham yatra, the current structure is much more recent.
Mana village is a 3km walk beyond Badrinath along the Alaknanda, past fields divided by dry stone walls. There’s a small cave outside this village, within which there’s a 5000+ years old Vyas temple. There’s a Bhima’s rock, which is believed to be arched over a river made by Bhima, the strongest of the Pandava. If you hike some 5km along the Alaknanda there’s Vasudhara waterfall. Satopanth lake is a 3-day trek starting from Mana. It’s a scenic treat of the birch forest, bugyals, and glacial landscapes before reaching the high altitude lake at 4600m.
Due to its proximity to the Chinese borders, it’s a sensitive location. Hence, you won’t find wi-fi or internet cafes, or phone data.
Jim Corbett Tiger Reserve
This world-renowned tiger reserve was established in 1936 as India’s first national park, spread over 1318 sq km of wild forest. In his book, the British hunter Jim Corbett brought light to this region, the man-eaters of Kumaon.
The grasslands, riverine, hilly terrains, wild elephants, deer primates, reptiles, and birdlife leopard, Himalayan black bear, and sloth bear are equal attention seekers.
The park is divided into six zones that offer different experiences. Dhikala is the most famous and the core area.
It offers the best chance of spotting animals. The others are Bijrani, Dhela, Durga Devi, Hirna, Sanoanadi. Tiger sightings on a safari need some luck as the 215 roam around freely. They are not tracked or baited. Your best chance is liked in the season of April to mid-June, when the forest cover is thin and animals wander out in search of water.
Nainital
The pretty lake of Naini is a sight to behold. It’s a volcanic green lake and a favorite hill resort. It occupies a steep forested valley. It is said to be one of the emerald-green eyes of Shiva’s wife, Sati, that fell to earth after her act of self-immolation. The Naina Devi temple is believed to be the exact spot where the eyes had fallen.
Kasar Devi
The abundance of marijuana attracts a lot of attention to this place. This place has hosted many celebrities over the time who came to meditate at the hilltop of Kasar Devi temple.
Almora
Capital of Kumaun region, it was the summer capital during the Chand raja era in 1560.
Nanda Devi
The stone Nanda Devi temple from the Chand raja era is covered in fold art carvings. Some of them are erotic.
Pithoragarh
It’s called the little Kashmir. It’s the main town near the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its a host to temples and old faults built by the Gorkhas in 1791.
Binsar
The Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary is located here. It was once the hilltop summer capital of the Chand rajas. It is a place for 200+ species of birds. You can see Kedarnath, Trishul, Nanda Devi, Panchachuli, and others.
Kausani
This sleepy village has lovely panoramic views of snow-capped peaks. Mahatma Gandhi found this place inspirational to write his Bhagavad Gita treatise- Anasakti Yoga, in 1929. You will find shikhara-style temples in a lovely location shaded by trees.
Bageshwar
It is located at the confluence of the Gomti and Sarayu rivers. The ancient stone Bagnath temple invites tourists, and its base camp for the Pindari glacier trek invites trekkers. It connects Munsyari and other eastern places with Kausani, Kasar Devi and Almora.
Munsyari
The 6000m Panchachuli sky-scraping peaks highlight the village of Munsyari. Trekkers who head to the Milam Glacier make sure to visit Munsyari. The main treks that bring travelers here are- Milam Glacier, Nanda Devi Base Camp, and Ralam Glacier. Day hikes like Kalya top give a breathtaking view of Nanda Devi and Nanda Kot, Maheshwar Kund, and Thamri kund.
Cross into Nepal- Banbassa to Mahendranagar.
Personal Note
Uttarakhand is my beloved state. After being there thrice in 2 years, I still crave for the raw beauty of the Himalayas. I believe the best way to really embrace mountain life is by volunteering. I went there as a teacher to teach English, but ended up learning so much in return. Live with the local families, blend in, and they’ll feed you their delicacies.
The purity of souls that is so tainted in today’s times in the rest of the world, is still so intact in the remote villages of Uttarakhand. Transport is tricky in the mountains, so do take proper precautions if you are planning on your own.
