A beautiful amalgamation of the sun, sea and sand, mountains and beaches, the calm and bash, there’s nowhere else like Goa in India. Here’s a comprehensive guide should you wish to travel to this gem of a place.
Best Time to Visit
In the past few years, Goa has seen tourism in all seasons. It has something different to offer in every season, so the best time to visit depends on the sort of vacation you plan to go on.
November to March is the wintertime, the best time to visit Goa. Mid-December to mid-Jan is when you’ll find an explosion in the prices of everything as that is the peak tourism season in Goa.
March to May: The summers are too hot and humid in Goa, owing to the 105 km coastline of this pint-sized state.
June end to September: is the time when monsoons hit. Goa has a dense forest cover and gets heavy rainfall. Tourism is almost at a halt at this time. However, there have been many accounts of travellers who have explored Goa in monsoons and are enchanted more than ever by the other side of Goa.
History
Goa is a picturesque blend of Indian and Portuguese cultures. Back in the 3rd century BC, when Ashoka’s Maurya empire ruled over Goa to the 400-year reign of the Portuguese, Goa had a diverse array of rulers. After the long rule of Kadamba, the Hindu Vijayanagar empire lost control of the Adilshah. Old Goa was the capital then.
The Portuguese arrived in 1510, bringing in a steady extension of power from Old Goa to other neighbouring provinces. They converted the locals to Christians and blended this Indian state into a Portuguese flavour. The Indian army fought and annexed it in 1961 after a 3-day siege. They may have left, but even in 2022, you will find the Portuguese legacy left behind in the cuisine, homes, churches, and the language.
Transport
Air
Goa airport is located in Dabolim (Goa International Airport) that serves domestic flights, a few handfuls of international flights, and private charters. But mostly, international travellers will have to get down to Mumbai then take a flight to Goa to reach here.
Land
Goa is well connected by private and state-run buses. The internal bus structure, too, is intact, connecting the main urban places and a few main beaches. Madgaon, Panaji, Mapusa, and Canacona in South Goa are the main centres where a few buses run internally to the main beaches.
Kadamba is a state government bus company that operates across the state. However, you won’t find bus transport very convenient when travelling within the state.
Tourists hire bikes and cars at a rental price that goes high in the peak month of December. Goa tourism has started its taxi service called Goa Miles, which works like uber. However, this ridesharing service excludes some parts of Goa.
Rail
The 760 km long Konkan railway is the main train line running through the state. This 1998 train line connects Mumbai in the north to Mangalore in the south via Goa. Many trains pass through the Karmali station in old Goa, 12 km from the state capital Panaji. The smaller stations include Pernem for Arambol, Thivim for Mapusa and north Goa beaches, and Canacona for Palolem.
Water
There are cruise ships from UAE or travelling between Mumbai and Maldives port at Goa’s Mormugao cruise ship terminal. A Mumbai to Goa ferry also runs three times a week.
Also Read: 5 Reasons to choose Goa as your work destination
The Portuguese Legacy
The Portuguese departed from Goa in 1961, but they left behind a rich legacy of culture, architecture, churches, schools, and medical colleges. You will still find thick traces of the Portugal trails in the north and central Goa.
As a result of the religious conversion during the Portuguese rule, one-quarter of the Goan population is Christian, Roman catholic specifically. The Christian festivals of Christmas, Easter, carnivals and the feast of St. Francis Xavier are evidence of Portuguese legacy.
Food
Goan cuisine consists of the liberal use of pork and uniquely spiced sauces like- xacuti, cafreal, recheado. Vindaloo is a Goan derivative of a Portuguese dish where pork is steeped in wine vinegar and garlic. Fish curry rice was a staple here before colonisation. The Portuguese introduced cashews to Goa, thus providing a basis for the national drink- Feni.
Architecture
Panaji’s Latin quarter of Fontainhas and Sao home has a lot of Portuguese-style homes converted into boutique heritage hotels. You will find these kinds of mansions and Palacios even on the backstreets of some beaches and south Goan villages of Chandor, Loutolim, and Quepem.
Susegad
It is the way of Goan life. Derived from the Portuguese Sossegado (quiet), susegad is a unique Goan term with a laid-back attitude and contentment with life. Spend a few days, and you will see it does not just exist in books. Goans follow it religiously ( more religiously in South Goa, so I found)
Places to Visit
Panaji
Panaji is one of India’s most relaxed state capitals. It overlooks the broad Mandovi river, where cruise boats and floating casinos ply the waters.
The highlight of Panaji is the tangle of narrow streets in the old Latin quarter of Fontainhas, Sao Thome, and Altinho hill. You will find the Portuguese influence the most here. Yellow houses with purple doors restored ochre-coloured mansions with terracotta-tiled roofs, wrought-iron balconies, and arched oyster-shell windows make it a rainbow city.
Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception
This pearly white church was built in 1619. It’s stacked like a fancy white wedding cake. When Panaji was more or less a sleepy fishing village, this church was the first port of call for sailors from Lisbon. They would then cross to continue to old Goa further east up the river.
Goa State Museum
Features an eclectic collection of items tracing aspects of Goan history. Some beautiful Hindu and Jain sculptures, Portuguese-era furniture antiques, coins, chariots, etc., are some of the historical collections you will find here.
Goa State Central Library
This library hosts six floors of reading material, a bookshop, and a gallery. 2nd floor features a children’s book section—4th floor- Goan history books 6th- Portuguese books.
Mario Gallery
India’s favourite cartoonist Mario de Miranda, a Loutolim local.
GTDC River Cruise
GTDC operates an entertaining hour-long cruise along the Mandovi river aboard Santa Monica with a live band or performances of Goan folk songs and dances.
Make it happen
They provide local insight into Goan history and culture. Local tour guides lead heritage walks to Divar island, Chandor, Saligao. The fountain has access to heritage homes and the performance of fado- a melancholic form of Portuguese singing.
Old Goa
Old Goa was the former state capital. It was termed the Rome of the East back in the 16th to 18th centuries. However, in the 17th century, the outbreak of Cholera and Malaria forced the city’s abandonment. The capital was officially shifted to Panaji in 1843.
Basílica de Bom Jesus Church
One of the most famous churches throughout the Roman Catholic world. It contains the tomb and mortal remains of St.Francis Xavier- the apostle of Indies. His body is in the mausoleum to the right in the glass-sided coffin amid a shower of sparkling stars.
Se Cathedral
It is the largest church in Asia. The construction commenced in 1562 on orders of king Dom Sebastio of Portugal. This church which has a Tuscan traditional exterior was completed 90 years later. In 1776 a bell tower collapsed due to the lightning struck hence the lopsided look.
Goa has many churches spread all over the state each carrying its own significance.
North Goa
North Goa is known for its crowded beaches, upbeat nightlife, Goan trance, sophisticated cuisine, hippie markets, yoga retreats and fast pace.
Mapusa is the most significant town in north Goa. An excellent place to pick up everyday items.
Candolim
The long and languid beach curves in to join the smaller Sinquerim to the south.
Fort Aguada
This fort is located overlooking the mouth of the Mandovi river. It was built in 1612, following the increasing threat to Goa’s Portuguese overlords by the dutch and others.
Calangute and Baga
Goa’s party strip, massage to tattoo, Baga snow part mini wonderland of snowmen, igloos, slides, and ice sculpted, suitable for kids. It was a museum. Of Hollywood and Bollywood celebs, 9d cinema, and bumper cars. Good for kids.
These beaches categorize as the most crowded in Goa.
Museum of Goa
It features artworks, sculptures, exhibitions workshops, courses, concerts, the brainchild of well-known local artist and sculptor Dr Subodh Kelkar, with the philosophy of making art accessible to all.
Anjuna
Anjuna is a stalwart of hippie scenes since the 1960s. Anjuna flea market is set up on the beach, generally on Wednesdays.
Assagao
Between the countryside of Mapusa and Anjuna or Baga, Assagao is North Goa’s prettiest village, with traffic-free country lanes, passing old Portuguese mansions, and whitewashed churches. Home to yoga retreats.
Vagator and Chapora are dramatic red stone cliffs, thick palm groves, and a crumbling 17th-century Portuguese fort. Prettiest setting on the north Goan coast.
Chapora – It has working fishing harbours at most of Chapora river.
Chapora fort
It is an old laterite fort that stands guard over the mouth of Chapora river. It was built in 1617 by the Portuguese to protect the Bardez district. You can still pick out the mouths of 2 escape tunnels, although it’s all ruins now. You will witness sensational views alongside the cost.
Dudhsagar falls splashes 603 m down the eastern border with Karnataka in the far southeastern corner of Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary. Visit soon after monsoon when water levels are highest. To reach there get via Colem village.
Morjim
Popular with Russian tourists known as little Russia. More black sand than golden due to river runoff.
Mandrem
Clean white sand that is separated from the village by a shallow creek.
Arambol (harmal)
This is the most northerly beach in Goa. It’s a mellow paradise for long-haired long stayers. Paragliding happens here above the kalacha beach (sweetwater lake)
Ponda
30 km southeast of Panaji, Ponda is a host of Hindu temple complexes and spice plantations.
Even after the arrival of the Portuguese, Ponda was under the control of Hindu or Muslim rulers. Many of the temples came into existence when Hindus were forced to escape Portuguese persecution by fleeing across its district border, bringing their sacred temple deities with them as centuries-old towers were destroyed by the new colonial regime. Shri Mangesh and Shri Mhalsa near the village of Mardol are most accessible. It is also the centre of commercial spice farms in Goa. They offer a guided tour of the plantation, a buffet thali style lunch, and a cultural show. Some of them are Pascoal, Sahakari savoi spice farms and plantations.
South Goa
South Goa is an opposite pole of North Goa. If north Goa is a party hub, south Goa is known for its natural cover, peace and calm.
Margao
The urban centre of South Goa. A bustling, traffic-clogged market town. It’s the central transport hub of south Goa with a train station and a central Kadamba bus station. . Unlike Panaji, this urban town doesn’t have a lot of stay options. Still, Benaulim is not far away from here (4 -5 km) if you want a south goa sea feel.
Longhuino’s– a local institution since 1950 serves up Indian grown Chinese dishes. Try Goan dishes like Ambot tik- sour fiery curry dish, retro desserts like- rum balls, Tiramisu.
Colva
It was once a sleepy fishing village but not anymore. It has now lost any resemblance to the beach paradise vibe.
Benaulim
One of India’s longest stretches of beaches, it is mainly empty sand topped with water sport enthusiasts and just a few beach shacks. Benaulim is quiet and more serene than Colva. It’s the south goa hub of water sports.
Goa Chitra Museum
This window to historical India is just 3 km from Maria hall. Artist Victor Hugo Gomes first noticed the slow extinction of traditional objects from farming tools to kitchen utensils and altarpieces- growing up as a child in Benaulim. He created an ethnographic museum for the more than 4000 cast-off objects he collected across the state over 20 years. It’s a 1-2 hour guide.
San Thome Museum
This museum at the southern end of Benaulim is known as the ‘Back in time’. It has 3 floors of carefully presented technology from old cameras and typewriters to gramophones, clocks and projectors.
Palolem
Lined with swaying curtains of coconut palms, Palolem is rightly the paradise beach of Goa. Although it now gets crowded in the peak seasons, this postcard-perfect beach is the central attention for foreign travellers. The waves here are not as fierce as Benaulim. It has a protected bay, one of the safest swimming spots in Goa.
Palolem’s calm waters are perfect for swimming, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding.
Dolphin spotting while boating is very common here. You can go boating where you will see the dolphins go around the turtle rock, the honeymoon beach and the butterfly beach that actually has a land route by Agonda.
https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/18250099585000296/
You can take cooking classes (Rahul’s cooking classes, Masala Kitchen)
The forest cover is comparatively dense in South goa which opens up many treks through the forest area and ends on the lesser-known beaches and caves.
You can visit spice farms (shikar spice farm), do yoga(Kranti yoga, Anand yoga, Aranya yoga), reiki
Drinking and nightlife– Palolem doesn’t have party scenes like north Goa. But it is not devoid of parties in peak season. Leopard Valley, Neptunes, sundowner are some of the key places that hold occasional parties.
Getting there
Frequent busses run from Chaudi ( the marketplace of Canacona), which is hardly a couple of kms to Palolem beach. The closes train station is Canacona, 2km from Palolem. Autos also run on the route at an affordable rate.
Colomb
Just around the headland at the southern end of the beach is Colomb bay, reached by foot or road. It’s a bit hideaway, best for retreats. Drop-in for cooking or yoga classes here.
Cola beach
Another hidden gem of south Goa. It’s relatively hard to reach a crescent of sand enclosed by forested cliffs and a gorgeous emerald lagoon stretching back from the beach.
Further from here is another private beach Kakolem where you have to trek down steep jungle steps from the clifftop above.
Patnem
This is a smaller and less crowded beach and has an inherently relaxed vibe. The waters are not as protected as Palolem’s, but you can still do the paddling. Patnem beach is patrolled by lifeguards.
Galgibaug
Framed by the Talpona river in the north and the Galgibaug river in the south, the barely touched sand beach is one of the most peaceful ones. Olive ridley long-lived sea turtles come to nest on the beach between Nov and March. This is an area protected by the forest department.
Agonda
Agonda is more low key than Palolem. The coast road between Betul and Palolem pass through Agonda village. At the same time, the main traveller centre is a single lane running parallel to the beach. The Agonda beach is wide though surfing and swimming can be tricky. The forest department’s turtle centre protects the olive ridley sea turtle eggs on the northern end.
Agonda’s gentle green waves are perfect to learn surfing.
Netravalli
This wildlife sanctuary is a host to many animals and birds that have found their home in the dense forests of Neturli. Enjoy a peaceful yet adventurous ride to the bubble lake, Savri or Mainapee waterfalls. There is also a strawberry garden on a foot route in the sanctuary area.
Top state festivals
Feast of the 3 kings- Held on 6th January.
Shigmotsav of Holi – Hosted in the month of February or March all over in Goa.
Sabado Gordo – Panaji
Carnival- a four-day festival is kicking off lent. Happens in Panaji
Feast of the Menino Jesus- Colva. Held on October 2nd.
Feast of St. Francis Xavier (old Goa 3 Dec) 10-day celebration of Goa’s patron saint.
Feast of our lady of the immaculate conception ( Margao, Panaji 8 Dec.. fairs and concerts around Panaji’s famous church.
Activities to do in Goa
The entire state of Goa is the hub of water sports in India. You can do scuba diving, surfing, swimming, boat rides, banana ride, parasailing, paragliding, jet skiing and many other sports. Not all the beaches offer the complete range of water sports, so you will have to enquire and choose amongst the many options available.
Besides water sports, there are many treks that happen in Goa. Get in contact with the local organizations that organize such activities or figure out with friends. The choice is yours. These trek routes start from some lesser-known villages, into the forests of Goa which ultimately lead to raw waterfalls or untouched beaches. Enjoy the peace and serenity of the Arabian sea after a humid hike through the palm, coconut and other trees.
adventure breaks, local beat Goa are some of the local organizations that will give you an authentic Goan experience.
Goa aquatics – professions dive result in PADI courses and boat dives to grand islands.
Indulge in art parties, macrame workshops, cooking classes, yoga and meditation retreats, bird watching amongst other activities. There’s no end to what one can do while in Goa.
Precautions
Drugs and theft– The state of Goa is the global face of Indian tourism. It is a host to travellers from around the world. Even though the Goa police exercise strict patrol, you still need to be cautious as a traveller, to not get into mishaps that happen due to drug consumption. Also, be vigilant against theft incidents, especially in crowded areas.
Women’s safety– Due to tourism, there’s a relatively progressive culture in Goa. However, a few unfortunate accidents related to women’s safety still presses the matter that women travellers have to be careful, especially while strolling at night time.
Driving– Goa has extremely narrow roads except for in the cities, which makes driving a bit risky. Besides, renting bikes culture is prominent in Goa. Road accidents due to carelessness, drunk driving happen frequently here. Make sure you have the driving license, the required documents and wear a helmet while driving.
